Archive for Hello Weekend
Presented by Larissa W. Cox, M.Sc. Applied Equine Science with permission from Springride Surfaces
Believe it or not, summer is coming and you will be riding! However, if you look at your arena now, it’s looking a little sad. You know you have to do something about it, but you don’t know what.
Sand draining well but needs added spring.
So, your arena looks okay and the drainage is good but it needs that added spring. According to Springride, UK manufacturers of Equestrian surfaces, prepare your sand by levelling and rolling and then lay 25mm rubber and fibre composite chip on top at a rate of one tonne per 40sqm. If you buy Springride’s premium chip, it comes in bags, so you can position them evenly on your arena, split or tip the bags and spread to an even depth. Take care to ensure the sand is completely level, you don’t want to lay the rubber in tracks or pits. Once laying is complete, level and roll daily until settled.
How much do you need? Springride delivers their product in 1 tonne bags, so if you have a 20m x 20m arena, the suggested requirement is 10 tonnes (10 bags). 20m x 40m = 20 tonnes; 20m x 60m = 30 tonnes.
Deep riding sand
According to Springride, this is one of the most common problems and generally occurs as a result of over engineered drainage and/or the wrong sand. You need to source a fine to medium, angular silica sand and lay to a depth of 100mm if topping with a rubber surface. Springride offers a great product called Springride Shred which is a blend of specifically shaped and uniquely patterned rubber that anchors into the sand layer to create a stable surface. This product reduces maintenance, provides great cushioning and spring with minimal kick back. It has great drainage properties and reduces dust, retaining moisture in dry months.
Is your indoor dry and dusty?
This is a very common problem with indoor arenas even with a sprinkler system in place. Prepare your sand by levelling and rolling. It is very helpful to thoroughly wet the sand prior to laying a top dressing. Springride has a innovative product called Shredtex which is a blend of rubber strips and rubber backed with textile. This helps retain moisture and provides a soft but secure footing. Lay this blend of rubber and textiles on a 75 – 100mm sand base and roll as often as possible in the first few weeks. You’ll be amazed at the difference.
Springride products are available for delivery across the UK and Europe. Sorry folks, this product is not available in North America.
Presented by Larissa W. Cox, M.Sc. Applied Equine Science
The great weight debate: How heavy is too heavy?
While most healthy horses can easily carry a rider and saddle, they do have their limits. How much weight can a horse comfortably carry? It’s a difficult question and one that science can only provide some guidance. There isn’t a simple formula as there are just too many variables in the equation, many of them are quite subjective Read the rest of this entry »
Presented by: Larissa W. Cox, M.Sc. Applied Equine Science
Okay, it’s now cold outside and many of us really don’t feel like riding. But did you know that lungeing is a time-saving workout that can be done during the off-season or when you can only grab a short respite between downpours.
According to The Equine Therapy Centre at Hartpury College in Gloucester, England, this is only true if you are lungeing your horse correctly and in an aid that is appropriate to his level of training, his conformation and way of going. Just because you’ve heard of a system, or a friend uses it, doesn’t mean that you should run out and buy it. Find out what different lungeing aids can do for your horse, where to buy them and how much they cost before making that buying decision.
Manufacturer’s claim: creates a fluid contact. Its sympathetic ropes and pulleys encourage the horse to use the correct muscles and to work in the perfect shape.
I must admit that I use it to limit extension of the hind leg, lower the head and neck if placed low, or compress the neck if set higher.
Manufacturer’s claim: helps the horse to step under from behind, using his back and lifting his shoulders, working into a soft, equal contact.
Again, I own this system and I use it to limit extension of hind limb and lower head and neck. The EquiAmi comes with a How-To DVD and it is recommended to watch the video before use.
Bungee reins/side reins
Bungee reins and side reins are widely available and used to: lower head and neck and inhibit forward movement of the head.
Side reins to: depending on placement, encourage lowering of head and neck or simply restrict movement to aid control.
Let’s face it, we all love the sun and many parts of the country, this summer was exceptional! Horses, in the paddock and fields, enjoy their time as they lie soaking up the rays. Those rays, while we all enjoy it, can be very damaging to our skin and our horse’s coat. But, there are many things that we can do to minimize the sun’s impact.
Parched coats are vulnerable to getting burned. Most sun-bleaching is perpetuated by agents that dry the coat which maximizes damage. The most common causes are salt, mud and petroleum products.
Salt from sweat and dirt from mud draw out natural moisture and oils from the horse’s coat. Epsom salt soaks can pull out an abscess or clean a deep wound. Poultice is a mud pack we use to pull heat and swelling out of legs. Left on the coat, salt and dirt deplete moisture. Salt (sodium chloride) is also a very common additive in horse shampoos.
While the skin’s natural oils protect the horse from elements and irritation, synthetic ones can burn and suffocate the hair. Hair not only gets bleached, but also brittle. Many products marketed to repel bugs, create a shine, and detangle are petroleum-based. Instead of using those products, use ones that promote the coat’s resilience and the hair’s strength.
The best strategy is to enhance your horse’s own defences. His coat’s natural oils protect hair and skin. The very best thing you can do to improve your horse’s coat is to curry it vigorously every day. This not only rids it of damaging salt and dirt, but also brings oils to the surface and exfoliates to release them.
Be discerning when buying products. Some products make claims that are not realized. Shampoos that strip natural oils not only take away the shine, but stripping the oils actually leads horses to get dirtier. Spray on shine can never simulate a deep-layered glisten, nor rich colour. Over time, some detanglers can make hair very brittle. Look for detanglers and conditioners that contain ingredients to help strengthen the hair.
Shampoos should specify: pH balanced for horses, otherwise, they will be difficult to rinse and likely leave a film that attracts drying sun and dirt.
Soft brushing and towelling facial skin makes it shine. If needed, human sunscreen can prevent pink muzzles from burning.
Presented by: Larissa Cox, M.Sc. Equine Science
From the time horses were domesticated and stalled, unknowingly, we created a problem. The equine digestive system continuously produces and secretes stomach acid. This isn’t an issue when horses graze most of the day, but when their stomach is empty, that acid can eat away at the stomach lining causing painful gastric ulcers and digestive imbalances.
In the wild, horses travel up to 25 miles a day eating little bites here and there, grazing 18 – 20 hours each day. Their digestive system is classified as trickle feeders, eating only enough to be satisfied and never to be full. It is very important to remember the underlying biology of the horse when determining how and when to feed and in what quantities.
The horse is a hind gut fermenting grazer. The digestive process starts when he pulls and chews grass which in turn stimulates the flow of saliva, lubricating this grass before passing into the digestive tract. As the horse chews, their alkaline saliva helps to buffer the acidity in their stomach. The pH of the stomach is quite acidic and realize that this acid is produced whether or not the horse is eating. As long as the horse’s stomach contents are buffered by saliva and fiber, the digestive tract remains healthy. When we as owners try to compensate for the lack of hay by feeding more concentrate, we unintentionally overload their delicate digestive system, leading to excessive fermentation and gas in the hindgut. This can lead to colic or diarrhea, or in extreme situations, gastric rupture, which can cause death.
Think about when you come home after a hard day’s at work, not eating all day. You come home famished. You eat everything in site, completely overeating, eating anything you can get your hands on. Because your brain hasn’t caught up with your stomach, you are still hungry when you go to bed. When you throw your horse a flake of hay, he will eat it until it’s gone, then still be hungry. He will devour his grain and finish his evening hay before you shut the barn door. If he eats too fast, he won’t feel content and full, which will lead to overeating. And, because he is not chewing properly, he thinks he is still hungry which will cause him to become nervous, edgy and disobedient.
The concept of slow feeding is a continuous feeding method that allows your horse to constantly forage, stimulating his digestive system and his mind. Under this condition, your horse’s body will work in better balance as nature intended. Slow feeders decrease the rate of consumption, replicating natural grazing. The digestive process is slowed down and the nutrients in hay can be absorbed much more efficiently.
Horses need to eat frequent meals as the stomach is very small and empties within an hour. Any slow feeding method would provide constant foraging thereby reducing stress and allowing the horse’s system to remain balanced. This in turn would reduce episodes of colic and loose stools.
As an added benefit, slow feeding can eliminate many vices such as weaving, cribbing and feed anxiety. Other benefits can include reduction of colic risk, reduction of boredom, elimination of forage waste, reduction in labour costs, ends multiple feedings.
There are many types of slow feeders from “toys” that drop grain pellets to hay nets, box feeders and automatic hay dispensers. Each having their advantages and their disadvantages. In the upcoming issues, some popular slow feeders will be discussed.
Josie, a 20 year old mare grazes on the lush fields in Versailles, Kentucky. Despite her age, she is still spry and acts like a three-year old kicking up her heels and racing around the paddock. She’s not royally bred. She’s not a high value broodmare or a retired show horse. In fact, there’s not much remarkable about her, except one thing…she only has three feet.
Josie has been a long time fixture at Dr. Ric Redden’s International Equine Podiatry Center where she has lived with a prosthetic for over 18 years.
Most people don’t realize that a horse can survive on three legs with a prosthetic limb. Disposition of the horse is the primary consideration for a prosthetic limb. Is the horse willing to use the help of a sling to relax and sleep, or will they fight it? Does the horse lie down and get up wearing a full leg cast? Does the horse take challenges in a calm manner? Is the opposite limb sound? Can the owner accept the responsibilities for care and that the horse will never be ridden again but will lead a full life?
Today’s prosthetic limbs have come a long way from the beginning when they were stiff and non moving. Over the years, technology for horses has improved with the help of those who specialize in human orthotics and prosthetics. Once the horse’s leg has healed, it’s ready for the new limb. The prosthesis can be made of carbon and have moving parts to help better simulate normal leg motion for the horse giving the ability to gallop while being turned out. Today a well-fitting and useful prosthesis can easily be achieved.
From the time of equine domestication, dogs have long enjoyed a connection with stable. Today it is a rare horse barn that doesn’t have a least one resident “barn dog”. It seems that over the years certain breeds have come to be particularly associated with horses. Hunting and herding dogs have a long tradition of being coupled with horses in a working relationship, as well as vermin catching terrier types.
A few breeds stand out when we think horses and dogs. It’s not so much breed that matters, as the temperament. Most barns get a certain amount of visitor traffic, so the barn dog should be non-aggressive, especially around children. But traditionally the barn dog is a useful canine, earning his keep in such capacities as herding, hunting or controlling mice populations.
Australian Shepherds have long held up their end of the job as herders on farms and ranches in the western United States. Contrary to their name, the breed was actually developed in the American West.
They are bred for their working ability rather than type. Crossed with other herding breeds the Aussie is known for his intelligence, endurance, energy and strong herding instinct.
The Corgi is a favorite of horse folk, especially the Queen of England. He’s a short, long dog that is just as at home herding cattle or sitting on your lap in front of the TV. Welsh legend has it that the Corgi was a gift from the fairies. Small in statue, but big of heart the Corgi was a cattle dog, ratter and family pet to the ancient Welshmen. A stiff penalty was given to anyone who would dare to steal a family’s Corgi because they were so important to the farmer.
Jack Russell Terrier is a little dog with a BIG personality.
The Jack Russell has been around for about one hundred years, developed from a strain of fox hounds by a preacher in England named John (Jack) Russell. These dogs also have been bred over the years for work rather than type. They resemble the early foxhound, and come in a range of sizes and hair types. Most are spotted with brown or brown and black, with at least 50% of their coat being white.
Dalmatians have been associated with coaching since ancient times. Since that time they have been guarding the coach and horses while the owners ran their errands. A dog with the stamina to keep up with horses, we remember them best for their affiliation with the fire station. Their job was to run ahead of the horse-drawn engine to warn pedestrians and other vehicles that they were coming through. This was before sirens. Owners of driving horses still enjoy the tradition of having a Dalmatian in their barn or on top of the carriage.
Great Pyrenees aka Pyrenean Mountain Dogs are a large, fuzzy, white and powerful dogs which historically have been used in Western Europe to guard herds of sheep and goats. Miniature Horse owners have discovered these dogs to be ideal to protect their horses from stray dogs and coyotes. The dogs are very territorial, but gentle with their families and animal charges. On the down side, they tend to bark a lot and will roam if not kept contained within fenced boundaries. They require a lot of exercise and patience in their training.
Horses and dogs can be great friends, especially when you have only one horse. Being a herd animal, a single horse will enjoy the company of a dog while his human herd mates are gone. While making a wonderful companion a dog can help you catch your horse, catch mice as well or better than a cat and act as a security guard. All things considered, they work for very low wages.
Do you have a barn dog? If so, send us your story.